We've just spent two glorious sunny days among the Chablis vines
with some of the clients of the Gourmet
Odyssey Wine Experience. With Céline, Pierre and
Yvonnick from Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard at our sides, we spent
the day behind the scenes to get an insight into what it's like
to be a winemaker!
Link to the video
To get a better understanding of the terroir around us, we
stepped out onto the terrace which overlooks the vines which
encircle the winery. It's an impressive view and the
perfect spot to appreciate the difference in vineyard plots that
make Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis
Grand Cru wines.
In the vineyard, Yvonnick explained to us all of the key stages
in cultivating the vines, from pruning right up until the
harvest. As is the custom with our Gourmet
Odyssey Wine Experience Days, the winemakers had left us some
work to do! To concentrate the energy of the vines in the
fruit bearing branches and the grapes, we needed to do some
"épamprage", which involves removing unwanted shoots from the
vines. These are the shoots that won't bear any fruit this
year, and won't be needed when it comes to pruning to generate
next year's harvest. The other advantage of épamprage is to
improve the flow of air around the grapes to help defend the
vines from mildew.
After receiving our instructions from Yvonnick, we spread out
among the rows of vines to get stuck in. But we soon found
out that épamprage is not quite as easy as it seems!
Each Wine
Experience client is the adopted owner of some vines in the
vineyard. Their vines are identifiable by a name board
placed in front of them. Once the hunt for the vines was
declared open, we set off to find them and to check that
everything was in order!
The Boissonneuse vineyard, where the adopted vines are located,
was the first plot to be converted to organic and biodynamic
cultivation. Yvonnick explained the difference between
these two approaches, and showed us some of the plants, found at
the end of the vine rows, that are used in making the biodynamic
infusions and concoctions that attract unwanted insects away from
the vines, or are used to strengthen the vines.
After all our efforts and all the talk about wine, the time
finally came to taste some of the wines from Domaine Jean-Marc
Brocard. To get a good appreciation of the range of wines,
we started the wine tasting with a Petit Chablis Sainte Claire
2010, followed by a Chablis Sainte Claire 2010, before tasting
the Boissonneuse 2009, the wine chosen by Gourmet Odyssey.
We then moved on to several Chablis Premier Crus and finished
with a Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2009.
Once we had enjoyed a lunch from the highly acclaimed Chablis
charcutier, Marc Colin, we headed down into the cool or the
cellar. Here, the Brocard family has left one of the walls
exposed so that we can see the layers of limestone and marl which
are the source of the distinctive aromas and taste of Chablis
wines.
The day finished with a visit to the fermentation hall to see the
tanks and oak vats that are used to ferment and age the
wines. After a final tasting, straight from the vats, we
said our goodbyes, everyone hopefully leaving with a better
understanding of the fascinating profession of a winemaker!
Link to the video